Sunday, August 27, 2017

Tahiti, 8-26-2017--Tour of Tahiti

By David

On Saturday, we rented a car and toured the island of Tahiti.  Tahiti is made up of two islands joined by a narrow isthmus.  The bigger island is known as Tahiti Nui (Big Tahiti) and the smaller one to the south is Tahiti Iti (Little Tahiti).

The early morning wake up committee at Pension Fifi.  By early, we mean around 4:30am.  Fortunately, we both love the sound of roosters, though their timing is a bit much.

South of Papeete are several grottos, which are shallow caves with water dripping from the ceiling into pools below.  The landscaping was impressive.


One of the smaller grottos.
A huge Indian rubber tree.

Near the grottos we came across this unusual feature beside the highway.  Apparently good drinking water poured out of several pipes set in a rock wall.  Local folks came to fill water containers for home use in preference to the water provided by local municipalities.


A view toward the mountains of Tahiti.

The southwest coast of Tahiti Iti is a surfers mecca...  


...with smaller waves inshore for beginners and big surf on the outer reef for pros.  

The road on the west side of Tahiti Iti ends at Teahupoo, site of world-renowned surfing competitions. 
On Tahiti Iti is a road up to Belvedere Lookout, a popular view point.  Looking north toward Tahiti Nui. 
A large acacia tree near the Belvedere Lookout.  Pearl is standing near the base for scale.  Large acacias are common in the Marquesas, Raiatea and Bora Bora.  

In the higher elevations near Belvedere Lookout are pastures with cattle...



...of various breeds.

Back down along the east coast of Tahiti Nui, we passed this well-tended coconut grove.  The aluminum flashing on the tree trunks is to prevent rats from climbing the trees and eating the coconuts.

Being a Saturday, many local folks were looking for fun.  Here, they've appropriated a bridge to use as a diving board.  The hefty fellow jumping was the...

...splash champion.

View from the east coast of Tahiti Nui, looking south toward Tahiti Iti.

A bocce tournament was in full swing beside the highway.  

At the north end of Tahiti Nui is Pointe Venus, named by Captain Cook in 1769.  He stopped here to make observations of the transit of Venus in front of the sun.  The object was to help determine the distance from Venus to the sun, from which the distances to other planets could then be calculated.   Unfortunately, the optics of the time weren't advanced enough and the observations failed to achieve their purpose. 

Captain Cook wouldn't have recognized the scene at Pointe Venus 248 years later.

At the Tahiti Easy Car rental near our pension, we had the pleasure of dealing with Jessica, the enthusiastic staff person.  She was a major contrast with much of the customer service we've found here.  Though she spoke very little English, she was super energetic and so apologetic when she couldn't come up with the right word in English.  Later that evening when we returned the car, she shrieked and jumped up and down clapping, then insisted on a selfie with us.  What a kick!  

Tahiti, 8-25-2017--Papeete

By David

On Thursday morning, after a teary good by to Minimus, we made the short flight to Tahiti.  

Our first stop was Pension Fifi, right across from the airport.  It's the closest thing to a bargain in town.
Above is the pleasant sitting room... 

...and patio, and...



...the welcoming crew overlooking the street below.  The mutt on the left is ever vigilant and barks at everything.  On the right is Mr. Laid-back.

The next morning we took the bus into downtown Papeete to see the sights we missed when we were here with David's illness.  Our take on Papeete is that there are just two memorable sights.  One is the no vehicle, pedestrian only waterfront park. 

This is, at least among sailors, the once-legendary quay along Papeete's waterfront.  Now, it's been replaced with security-gated docks and mega cruise ships.

The other sight worth seeing is the market.  These flowers greeted us at the entrance.

A view of the market from upstairs.  All manner of produce, crafts and tourist happy crappy are for sale.


Dancing for the cruise ship tourists.

Papeete town hall.  One of the few colonial-era buildings left.

Near the market we ran into Chuck, the retired doctor who took an interest in David's case back in Nuku Hiva and gave him a thorough check-up there.
Like so many sailors we met along the way, Chuck and Karen have been dealing with one system breakdown after another.  As we've noted before, a popular saying is that cruising is doing expensive repairs in paradise.

Tahiti's image notwithstanding, too much of its main city, Papeete, is like this--uninspiring concrete buildings along streets clogged with noisy traffic... 

...and shops selling endless happy crappy.

After downtown, we stopped at a popular marina where many long-distance cruisers congregate.  Many of them we no doubt knew but they were at anchor and we had no dinghy to visit them in.
Moorea in the background.
Meanwhile back at the pension, Minnie waits for us. 



Wednesday, August 23, 2017

Epilogue to the Voyage of Minimus, 8-23-2017

By David and Pearl

Two years ago we rescued Minimus from an inevitable journey to the scrapyard. In return she has been our home, refuge, transportation and, above all, a passport to adventure. She has taken us to the fabled South Pacific. She has allowed us to explore exotic islands. She has helped to fulfill a dream for us. Perhaps she has also suggested a way that others might follow.

(Click to enlarge)
It is the nature of adventure to meet the unexpected. Indeed, we met with it many times, in the discovery of myriad life forms inhabiting the ocean we sailed on, in close encounters with whales, in a mysterious illness, in the delight of new friends, to name just a few.

We both agree though, that the most unexpected aspect is what it has done for our relationship. Not to give the wrong impression, we were good going into the voyage, but we both had questions about how it would go once we were at sea. More often than not, the daunting constellation of cramped quarters, of constant discomforts, of fatigue, of the anxiety of living on a dynamic, ever changing medium so exposed to weather and so foreign to a land-dwelling species, reveals and amplifies differences and can ultimately drive people apart. For us, it's been the opposite.

Not that it was always easy. Often it was not, but six months of living with those daily realities instead brought us closer together, gave us a renewed appreciation for what we value in each other. Not to make this sound like Kumbaya, but we both agree that this adventure is the best thing we've ever done together. We're most grateful for that.

It was not however, the only way in which the real work of the voyage was less about the outward accomplishment than about the inner work. We had with us a small piece of cloth on which was written in calligraphy “Surrender to the mystery of it all.”

(Click to enlarge)
It had been given to us by David's ex-wife Mary (a dear friend of us both) in response to our early setbacks in San Diego when our departure was delayed by storm after storm and then, at the 11th hour, by the breakage of the tablet we'd hoped to depend on for navigation.

Perhaps it was the endless expanse of water, or the humbling sense of vulnerability, or the days and weeks of being isolated at sea, or perhaps it was just the time of life we find ourselves in, but surrender, in the best sense of the word, became a major theme of the voyage.

Surrender as a watchword may seem odd, but among ocean crossing sailors it's a discipline of the highest order. As challenging situations present themselves and after all that can reasonably be done has been done to meet them, there comes an opportunity to let go and simply be open to whatever unfolds.

Imprisoned on the tiny island that is a boat at sea, waiting in sweltering equatorial heat day after day after day for the slightest breath of wind, one's ability to let go of impatience is profoundly tested. As squalls approach and lightning flashes and one knows that the boat mast is the only lightning rod around, anxiety reigns and one is challenged to let it go. When days of contrary winds threaten to prevent landfall on islands that one has dreamed of seeing for decades, it's no small task to let go of expectations. Surrender, in this sense, is not merely confined to voyages, but is without doubt the task of a lifetime. While we don't claim proficiency, the voyage gave us many opportunities to practice. Hopefully we made some small progress.

Now our letting go is of Minimus and the voyage. We're still in that not-so-easy process.

Nonetheless, we're pleased for the new chapter Minimus is entering, that she's returning to what she was designed to do, to provide a way for a young family to learn to sail, to make day trips and eventually weekend outings. Even, if they someday desire it, to sail to Bora Bora or Huahine, or perhaps even Moorea or Tahiti or...? May their new adventure with Minimus go well.

(Click to enlarge)

As for us, we look forward to continuing the blog and the tracking page updates as we travel through New Zealand. Beyond that, we hope many more adventures await and if so, that we can share them with you.




Raiatea, 8-23-2017--Trip to Taha'a

By Pearl

Yesterday we decided to take the ferry over to Taha'a, the neighboring island within the same lagoon.

Pearl beside the ferry in Uturoa, Raiatea

Most of the ferry passengers are French school teachers who live on Raiatea and commute to the neighboring island of Taha'a

The ferry crosses the lagoon and half an hour later arrives at Taha'a

We settle in at the snack for an espresso and pastry

Then hitch-hiked to a local hotel where we picked up a rental car.  These decorations at the hotel were fresh flowers and leaves.  This hibiscus was about 7-8" across.  
The road gave fabulous views of the lagoon

We were impressed with the pride almost everyone seemed to take in their landscaping.  We were also impressed with how friendly everyone we met was, waving and wishing us "iorana", the traditional Tahitian greeting.   

Looking across the lagoon toward Raiatea

An especially ostentatious grave in front of a home.  As on Bora Bora, these were a common sight in front of homes.
Curious about the shade structures we kept seeing along the road, we stopped and found out they were vanilla "plantations"

The gorgeous vanilla blossom 

Since there are no native pollinators, the blossoms have to be hand pollinated, as demonstrated here by the staff

They said that about 6 months later the vanilla pods form.


Road through the forest

We saw much grooming of palm groves.  Here they are burning coconut husks and most curiously the nearby cows were feeding on cut palm branches.

A barge loaded with what we later discovered was bagasse, the shredded remains of processed sugar cane.

We'd heard about this place and stopped by for a tour.  They made a variety of organic products from local plants. 

One of the products is food grade coconut oil.  Here the coconuts are split with a machete.
Split coconuts


Coconut meat is removed with a shredding machine.  Between this and the machete, there's lots of potential for missing fingers.  Amazingly, this fellow had all 10. 


Empty coconut shells.

After drying the shredded coconut for several days, it's cold-pressed through this contraption.

Finished coconut oil, which is added to other local plant extractions including vanilla, basil and citronella to make a variety of products including soap, insect repellent, and various cosmetics.  


In another part of the operation, sugar cane is shredded and pressed... 

...yielding this liquid extract...
...and bagasse, the shredded remains after the liquid is removed.  Bagasse is then returned to the sugar cane field to be used as mulch.

The liquid portion of the sugar cane goes into these tanks with some yeast added, where it ferments for about 5 days.

It's then distilled in this copper and stainless steel distiller and aged in either the stainless steel tanks in the foreground or...
...in these oak barrels, which were formerly used at the Jack Daniels distillery in Kentucky.

The final product is a high-quality rum, either clear or, if aged in the oak barrels it becomes what they call "straw" rum.  



Sugar cane, which is grown in small-scale plots by a number of local suppliers for the rum production.

As we traveled around the island, we saw what appeared to be numerous long mailboxes, one of which said "breadbox" on it.  That's when we realized there's a baguette delivery service on the island.


After that we got carried away with photographing them.  The owner of this one was standing nearby and she said she gets 4 baguettes delivered every other day.  That's our baguette serving as a model.  We'll spare you all the photos, but here's a sampling for fun.

Standard gable-roof model

Same, but with corrugated roof and plexi-glass door on the front.

This is the heavy duty model, made from steel pipe.

Another gable roof type.  This was the most common.
Curved sheet metal style (what do you think, Erik?) 

And of course what David would make if he lived here, just a simple piece of PVC pipe.


We bid farewell to Taha'a.