Nuku Hiva, 5-29-2017--David reporting from Tucson

Once again, and despite the blog heading, I (David) am reporting from Tucson.  Although I'm still relying heavily on a cane to get around, I'm feeling better day by day.  This morning feels like an especially noticeable improvement.

Even though my illness remains something of a medical mystery, I really think the decision to return here to Tucson was the right one.  It would not have been realistic for me to be getting from the kayak up into the boat and the reverse, not to mention landing ashore through the surf.

I just got a return ticket for June 7.  Still to go are two appointments with specialists, one on Wednesday and another on Monday.  Hopefully they'll give me a green light to return to Pearl and Minimus.

OK, enough about me for the moment.  I want to devote the rest of this page to my incredible support group here at Sitting Tree community in Tucson.  For well over a decade, Sitting Tree has frequently been where Pearl and I have stayed on trips from Cascabel to Tucson.

Ramesh, Julie, Tom, Patti, Holly, Hale, Kemper, Kyle, Conchi and Eric, we owe you a debt of thanks far beyond what we'll ever be able to repay.

I haven't gotten a photo of everyone yet, but hopefully this will do for starters:

This is my long time friend and uber doctor Ramesh Karra.  I don't use that adjective lightly.  By every metric Ramesh is one of those doctors you pray for when you're feeling ill, when you need an advocate in the bewildering maze that modern health care has become.  He cares. He takes the time to listen.  He knows the system inside and out.   He has an innate curiosity.  He loves medicine.  He's everything you want in a doctor.   If he could just be cloned, I think we'd be well on the way to a really healthy health care system.      

Tom Brightman and Patty Atkins, who, like Ramesh, are longtime friends.  I hardly know where to begin in describing the care I've received from these dear folks.  They stop by multiple times a day to check on me.  Patty is a massage therapist who each evening has been giving me massages to help speed the healing.   It's working.

Tom is one of those 'can do anything' guys and a great cook to boot.  He starts my days with coffee and breakfast and ends them with dinner.  In between he stops by for chats, which I always enjoy.  Having sailed with Tom, if I ever needed crew on a boat, he would be my absolute first choice.

A backstory here is that Tom also has a rare sense of humor.  And I do mean rare.  Periodically throughout our voyage he would send me texts.  Always outrageous. Always off color.  No spaces.  No punctuation.  It would take me 10 times longer to read his messages than anyone else's.  Anyone passing within 1/4 mile of Minimus in mid-ocean would have heard peals of hysterical laughter coming out of the cabin as we read his 'can't believe he really said that' texts. 

In a happy coincidence, my sister Karen, her husband Scott, my niece Cameron and my nephew Zacchary happened to be passing through Tucson and we had a great visit.  You may recall them from the beginning of the voyage in San Diego, when they generously gave us the gift of a marina slip where we did the final preparations on Minimus.  

Here's the old goat in recovery mode.

As you can see, he's not improving in looks, but is feeling better day by day thanks to the great care and well wishes from so many of you.  

Nuku Hiva, 5-24-2017--David reporting from Tucson

Despite the title, I (David) am reporting from Tucson, AZ where I'm getting medical care.  I have no doubt that the last thing most readers want to hear is more about my medical issues.  I'm pretty tired of it myself.

I'm also determined that by the end of June, if not well before, we'll be back under sail again and will be sharing sights and experiences far more interesting that my medical woes.

That said, this unexpected turn of events is all part of the adventure, so below is a brief update.

Pearl flew from Tahiti back to Nuku Hiva yesterday and is back aboard Minimus now, awaiting my return.  She has many friends among fellow sailors there, though they'll all be leaving over the coming weeks.  Others will be arriving though, and among sailors in distant anchorages, community forms quickly so she'll likely be among friends during my absence.

On my end back here in Tucson, various tests were done yesterday, mostly suggesting good news.  If anyone is interested, here is the medical update:

CRP, an indicator of inflammation, is normally under 10 in healthy people.  Mine was 272 when I was admitted 2 weeks ago.  It's now down to 5 with all the antibiotics I've had, so the infection is clearly under control, perhaps even wiped out at this point, though I'm still on antibiotics.

An MRI on my still painful knee showed a Baker's cyst.  It's apparently related to a minor tear on the meniscus on the side of the knee.  While the radiologist couldn't rule out an association with the strep infection, he thinks it's unlikely.

So, it's looking more and more like a coincidental but bizarre constellation of symptoms and causes.  The root cause of the strep infection is still unknown and that's of course somewhat troubling.

The doctors opinion is that had we not gotten antibiotic and other treatment at the Nuku Hiva hospital, it's not likely I would have survived.   That we just happened, on the day before the infection occurred, to sail into an anchorage close to the only hospital within nearly 1000 miles is something we'll long be grateful for.

So, I'm currently scheduled to see an orthopedic surgeon on June 5, followed by outpatient surgery to fix the torn meniscus.  A couple weeks of rehab and I should be good to return to Minimus and, more importantly, to Pearl.

Our plan is then to spend a week or so exploring Nuku Hiva, followed by setting sail for the Tuamotus and Tahiti.  At that point we'll have to review where things are with the French immigration authorities, impending cyclone season, etc.

Sorry, no photos this time, but hopefully on the next blog update.

Nuku Hiva 5-20-2017--David in hospital

Life has gotten complicated.  What follows is a brief explanation of what has happened since we sailed to Nuku Hiva on May 3.

The day after we arrived David felt lethargic and then developed headache, a fever of over 103F and pain and tenderness in his right knee and right bicep.  The next day he was feeling worse and by Saturday we got him to the hospital, which was only a couple blocks from the bay.

He spent the next week there as the wonderful staff worked hard to find the cause of his illness.  It was finally narrowed down to a blood infection, but mysterious in showing atypical symptoms and no apparent source of infection.

His right knee, right arm from shoulder to mid-forearm and left shin were swollen to about twice their normal size and were red, hot and painful.  The fever kept coming and going.  He developed an almost unstoppable bout of hiccups, day and night.

The doctors at Nuku Hiva, in consultation with a specialist in Tahiti, realized it could be life-threatening and that he needed to fly to Tahiti for more advanced testing.  We left Minimus behind and arrived here in Tahiti on May 14.

Testing began the following day.  One concern was that the infection may have gone to his heart, but fortunately tests revealed that the heart wasn't involved.  Then a CT scan showed that neither his chest nor abdomen appeared to be involved.

It's now May 20 and we're still in Tahiti, staying at a pension.  He has been on intravenous antibiotics since May 5.  The swelling has reduced in his arm and shin considerably, though the knee continues to be swollen and painful.    

Given the situation, which is far too complex to go into here, but involves his insurance, medical concerns, the cost of medical care in Tahiti, the status of the boat in the eyes of the French immigration service and many other variables, we have decided it's best for him to return to Arizona for more testing.

He leaves tonight.  I will remain here in Tahiti, trying  on Monday to resolve the situation with the boat and French immigration.  I hope to fly back to Nuku Hiva on Tuesday and await David's return.

Part of the complexity of the situation is how and why the blood infection occurred.  So far it has all the doctors stumped.  This is worrying, especially given the next leg of our voyage.

Assuming David recovers soon and joins me again on Minimus, the next leg of our voyage is sailing almost 1000 miles from Nuku Hiva to Tahiti.  This involves sailing through the Tuamotu Archipelago, a low-lying group of coral atolls covering an area nearly the size of western Europe.

Historically, the Tuamotus were known as the "Dangerous Archipelago".  Many vessels have been lost there due to currents, reefs and sometimes unpredictable weather.  We absolutely need to be on our A-game during that transit.

A major concern is that because the source of David's illness remains a mystery, it's hard to predict if it will return.  If it did in the Tuamotus... well, we're trying not to think about that.  Insstead, we'd like to get to the bottom of this.  Hence, his return to Arizona for more testing.  Hopefully he will join me  back on Minimus soon.

Since this saga began, the stories of generosity, kindness and support we've received are overwhelming.  The love we've felt has had both of us in tears too many times to tell.

Tiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva

David, not in the best of times

David's precious sleeping bag.  His only protection from shivering while running a fever in the cold air-conditioned hospital room. It was soon discovered and taken away to bring his fever down. 

Swollen right knee

62 going on 92?

(L-R) My wonderful French doctors.Marie and Anais in Nuku Hiva

David propped up on antibiotics, painkillers and anti-psychotic medication (to prevent uncontrollable hiccups) joking with Marquesan nurses.

Pearl communicating with staff member Tiare using google translate app.  Even before we arrived in Polynesia, I (Pearl) had wanted a pearl.  Tiarae just gave me hers.  It's the first piece of jewelry I've ever had.  I'll never let go of it.

As David says, he now has two pearls

Aline, a French speaking American boat friend who just happened to come to the  hospital as we were trying to make countless arrangements with the nurses prior to flying to Tahiti.  We were in critical need of a translator and suddenly there you were.  Everyone felt the tension just drain out of the room.  Aline, you saved our day!

I need to walk back my earlier critique of French coffee. A hearty quantity served in a bowl is more the norm. Yeah! 

An atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago from the plane to Tahiti.

After 3-1/2 hours, Tahiti comes into view. 

Ua Pou 5-2-2017--Exploring the village

This post is heavy on images.  For more text, check the message section on our tracking page:

https://share.garmin.com/Minimus

Outrigger canoe. These are a dying breed except for the outrigger sport paddling canoes which are quite popular.

A group of teenage girls who delighted in trying to speak English with us amid peals of laughter.

Some of the volcanic spires on Ua Pou. 

Goodies at the bakery

A French "cup" of coffee.  Pathetic, eh?

And speaking of pathetic, these are my Keen water sandals after less than a week of wear.  Another sailor also reported having his almost new Keen sandals come apart. 

More straps coming apart on my practically new Keen sandals. A replacement that would be so easy back home is practically impossible here.  Time for the epoxy.

Portland sailors Terry, a retired environmental lawyer, and his son Emerson.  They plan to sail to Hawaii and then back to Portland from here.  We've shared a couple anchorages with them and have really enjoyed getting to know them.

Pearl shops for a baguette fresh from the oven.

Tuhuata 4-(22-27)-2017--Hanamoena Bay

What Hanamoena anchorage on the NW side of Tahuata Island lacks in dramatic scenery it makes up for with clear water, a coconut palm fringed white sand beach and good snorkeling.

By the way, more photos have now been added to the Fatu Hiva page, including Humberto lowering his mother into the dinghy.

Pearl enjoys the anchorage at Hanamoena anchorage on Tahuata Island. This anchorage is one of the few in the Marquesas with white sand beaches and clear water.  The snorkeling was wonderful compared to anything else we found in the Marquesas.  

Pearl and the Hanamoena anchorage.

Our French friend Natalie and her 4 year old daughter Maylie and 2 year old son Liwa. Natalie and her husband Fabian have lived on their ferro cement schooner for 6 years.  The kids are totally at home on the boat, climbing though the rigging, going back and forth between boat and dinghy, etc. 

Sebastian and his wife Valerie sailed from Montreal with their three children.  The name of their boat was a tongue in cheek play on words from ships called Panamax which are designed to be the largest possible able to transit the Panama Canal.  

Minimus in Hanamoena anchorage, Tahuatu

Fatu Hiva 4-(16-21)-2017--Bay of Virgins

We're now on Ua Po Island, still in the Marquesas and finally have internet again.  First, we'll catch up on our visit to Fatu Hiva.

We anchored in the Bay of Virgins.  It was once more appropriately known by locals as the Bay of Penises by virtue of the phallic rock spires surrounding the bay.  Early missionaries couldn't countenance the name and thus we now have Bay of Virgins.  The misnomer notwithstanding, the scenery was dramatic, as the photos will attest.

In addition to the scenery, we became aware of a rather incredible story on one of the other boats. Note the white catamaran on the left in the first photo below.  Then note Humberto and his 91 year old mother in the second photo below.

Theirs is quite a story.  Humberto prides himself for never having worked.  He's sailed all across the south Pacific over the decades, mostly supporting himself as a trader.  His boat was unkempt and always in need of repairs.  For the past few years he was anchored in Fiji.  Twice every day he would call his mother back in the Netherlands.  Every fall she would send him a plane ticket and he would fly back to Holland to take care of her during the winter.

Last year she declared that she was coming to Fiji to live with him.  He replied that his boat was too small.  She told him she would buy a large catamaran in the Carribbean and he would sail her to Fiji.

Incredibly, here they were.  It took 45 days from Panama, because Humberto was essentially single handing as well has taking care of her.  At one point he said they had some pretty rough weather and she was quite seasick.  She just said that this was part of sailing and she'd tough it out.  Indeed she did.

We were absolutely astounded to watch him put her into a cage, then use an electric hoist to move  her out over the stern of the boat and down into the dinghy.  Then he put her wheelchair in and they'd go to shore.  How he got her out onto land we never saw.

The dramatic anchorage at Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva

Humberto on left and his ocean-crossing 91 year old mother in wheelchair

Catholic church in foreground and one of many phallic rocks above

Crossing stream on way to waterfall with fellow sailors Sandra and Tim

(L-R) Sandra, David and Tim beside banyon tree

At base of waterfall

Hanavave Valley

Orchid

View of anchorage and Fatu Hiva coast from lookout  

Let's see, if I just push this lever I'm sure it will start

Village of Hanaveve and surroundings

More Fatu Hiva scenery

Cooling off in the same stream Thor Heyerdahl and his wife Liv bathed in back in 1937.

Humberto lowering his 91 year old mother via the cage into the dinghy

Unusual seed pod from some plant we don't know

Our almost new Advanced Elements Convertible Kayak comes apart at the seam due to shoddy engineering.  This despite our being very careful not to over inflate the kayak. Fortunately some Swiss friends had a sewing machine on their boat, so I sewed it back together and re-sewed all the other seams as well.  

More phallic rocks surrounding the bay

Sunset from Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva

Pearl cooks a dish of local pig and papaya

Newfound friends Drew and Lori from Alaska