Nuku Hiva, 6-10-2017--David returns!

Our happy reunion

David here, writing from the Snack. I never got to know Nuku Hiva when we first arrived here. Except for the hospital, it's all new to me. My first impression is that the Snack needs a more illustrious name. Given the multiple nationalities gathered here, the “international cultural center” or some such seems more fitting.

A congenial mix of several dozen folks from at least 8 countries are gathered here, sipping fruit drinks, talking, laughing, checking up on email. In addition to European languages, I've even heard Hebrew, as there's a couple on a boat from Israel here. The local maestro is playing Marquesan tunes on the uke. It's quite a pleasant atmosphere.

Pearl seems to know everyone here and I got quite a welcome when I arrived.

It's a day of festivities on Nuku Hiva today, with the big event being canoe racing. Canoe racing is the sporting event here in the islands. These are colorful single outrigger canoes about 18 feet long and barely wide enough to seat a paddler. In fact, without the outrigger the canoe would capsize instantly.   

This morning's race has competitors coming from as far as Moorea, almost 1000 miles away. Those coming in from other islands transport their canoes on the inter-island supply ships. 25 canoes just started and will cover a 24 kilometer course. From our perspective going just ¼ mile from Minimus to shore, that's a very long way to paddle a canoe at what appears to be full speed.

Balanced against this congenial and idyllic setting are the raw realities of long-distance sailing in such a remote part of the world. Most of the sailors here are about our age and, as for most of us entering our senior years, health issues begin to loom large.

A fellow sailor from England just got out of the hospital this morning. He just had a transfusion of 8 units of blood. He looks weak. Pearl thinks his illness is more serious than he realizes. Still, he and his crew plan to sail on to Tahiti. From there, he will likely have to fly back to the UK for treatment. We hear through the grapevine of other health issues, less serious but still anxiety producing given the distance to medical care.

Then there are equipment issues. Many of the boats here are anxiously awaiting parts to be flown in from Tahiti. Some are of relatively minor importance, like water maker or refrigerator parts, though to the boat owner, every broken part means a whole system down. In reality, only the parts necessary to keep the boat afloat and sailing are really critical, but plenty of boats are in need of those.

What are merely annoying glitches back home with computers, smart phones, tablets, credit cards, ad nauseum become major headaches here. A fellow sailor sitting beside me has been on the phone for the past half hour trying to straighten out a credit card problem. Overhearing the conversation, she's dealing with the all-to-familiar litany of circular reasoning and maddeningly unworkable suggestions.

These issues notwithstanding, it's wonderful to be back. The mix of being together again, and in such a scenic setting, listening to melodic Polynesian music, rocking to sleep at night aboard Minimus, meeting new friends each day, makes it more than worth it.

Canoes at race start

They're off

The first of 3 laps around the bay

Leis for the finishers

Pit roasted plantains in palm thatch

Pit roasted pig, also in palm thatch

Roasted sheep in coconut milk

Serving meals at the school fair and fundraiser

The uke maestro plays