Manihi, 7-15-2017--Canoe racing and chant

By David

Canoe racing and chant were the activities of the day. Canoe racing was mostly done in single paddler, single outrigger canoes. There were divisions for women, children and men. later in the day there were also 6 person canoe races with women's, men's and some mixed youth teams.

Andrew, a fellow we'd just met, invited us to join one of the two committee boats for the men's race. He spoke English, so it was a great opportunity to ask numerous questions we had about life on the atoll. By the end of the race we'd learned about pearl farming, copra and canoe racing. We also had a pearl farm tour lined up for Monday morning.

The race was incredibly long for what appeared to be a sprint event, judging by the effort the paddlers were expending. It went on for over an hour, all at full tilt. The women's, while not quite as long, was also impressive, especially the winner who came in well ahead of the next competitor.

Andrew explained that the canoes are all made in Tahiti, though by several different manufacturers. The best ones are high-tech carbon fiber and cost over $3000. Apparently there are no design restrictions except that the canoe must be paddled. What has emerged is the fastest shape possible. After that, the only possible improvement is a lighter weight boat, hence the carbon fiber. So, except for weight, the playing field is pretty level.

The races went on all day, ending just before sunset.

All around the village are posters announcing the various days activities. On tap for this evening was something called “chant”. Judging by the drawings on the posters, we expected little more than karyoke. Instead we were delighted to find the performers accompanied by guitars, ukeleles and drums. Some also played their own instruments. 

Nearly all the songs were in Polynesian languages, though we couldn't differentiate between Tahitian and Pakumotu. In any event, many were evocative of a love of place with hand and arm motions indicating sunrise and sunset, the sky and the sea. We were also surprised to hear Manihi in many of the songs, so it's an unusually local form of music. Perhaps that's due to the relative isolation of the atolls. 

The men prepare for their race.

This is the committee boat we were invited to join. The boat is typical of those used here, being open and having a large outboard motor.

Pearl and Andrew on the race committee boat.

Kahutia, who ran the committee boat.  He also has a pearl farm, which he invited us to tour on Monday.

The 14 men competitors line up and we sound the start of the race.  Our purpose was to stay near the back of the pack in case anyone ran into trouble.

Along the way we passed a palm covered motu. 

This paddler capsized, but was soon back in the canoe.  

Later came the women's races.  This competitor was impressive, coming in well ahead of the others.  

This race amused us.  The boat on the right is crewed by what we call the hoodlums.  Good kids, but with too much time on their hands and a somewhat indolent air about them.  The other canoe is crewed mostly by teen-age girls with a lot of spirit.
The girls beat the hoodlums handily.  Sometimes justice really does prevail.

The overloaded committee boat we'd been on earlier in the day.

Both committee boats grossly overloaded.  We've never seen any sign of a life jacket in these boats, despite often seeing  baby strollers, young children and the elderly in them.  Perhaps it's due to the warm water and everyone knowing how to swim since early childhood.    

An elderly man on crutches is helped into the community boat.  

A local woman belts out a local song in either Tahitian or Pakumotu.

She's followed by a vahine in shell jewelry.