Monday, May 1, 2017

Fatu Hiva 4-(16-21)-2017--Bay of Virgins

We're now on Ua Po Island, still in the Marquesas and finally have internet again.  First, we'll catch up on our visit to Fatu Hiva.

We anchored in the Bay of Virgins.  It was once more appropriately known by locals as the Bay of Penises by virtue of the phallic rock spires surrounding the bay.  Early missionaries couldn't countenance the name and thus we now have Bay of Virgins.  The misnomer notwithstanding, the scenery was dramatic, as the photos will attest.

In addition to the scenery, we became aware of a rather incredible story on one of the other boats. Note the white catamaran on the left in the first photo below.  Then note Humberto and his 91 year old mother in the second photo below.

Theirs is quite a story.  Humberto prides himself for never having worked.  He's sailed all across the south Pacific over the decades, mostly supporting himself as a trader.  His boat was unkempt and always in need of repairs.  For the past few years he was anchored in Fiji.  Twice every day he would call his mother back in the Netherlands.  Every fall she would send him a plane ticket and he would fly back to Holland to take care of her during the winter.

Last year she declared that she was coming to Fiji to live with him.  He replied that his boat was too small.  She told him she would buy a large catamaran in the Carribbean and he would sail her to Fiji.

Incredibly, here they were.  It took 45 days from Panama, because Humberto was essentially single handing as well has taking care of her.  At one point he said they had some pretty rough weather and she was quite seasick.  She just said that this was part of sailing and she'd tough it out.  Indeed she did.

We were absolutely astounded to watch him put her into a cage, then use an electric hoist to move  her out over the stern of the boat and down into the dinghy.  Then he put her wheelchair in and they'd go to shore.  How he got her out onto land we never saw.

The dramatic anchorage at Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva

Humberto on left and his ocean-crossing 91 year old mother in wheelchair


Catholic church in foreground and one of many phallic rocks above

Crossing stream on way to waterfall with fellow sailors Sandra and Tim

(L-R) Sandra, David and Tim beside banyon tree

At base of waterfall

Hanavave Valley

Orchid

View of anchorage and Fatu Hiva coast from lookout  

Let's see, if I just push this lever I'm sure it will start

Village of Hanaveve and surroundings


More Fatu Hiva scenery

Cooling off in the same stream Thor Heyerdahl and his wife Liv bathed in back in 1937.
Humberto lowering his 91 year old mother via the cage into the dinghy

Unusual seed pod from some plant we don't know

Our almost new Advanced Elements Convertible Kayak comes apart at the seam due to shoddy engineering.  This despite our being very careful not to over inflate the kayak. Fortunately some Swiss friends had a sewing machine on their boat, so I sewed it back together and re-sewed all the other seams as well.  

More phallic rocks surrounding the bay

Sunset from Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva

Pearl cooks a dish of local pig and papaya

Newfound friends Drew and Lori from Alaska

3 comments:

  1. Great update!!! Following and enjoying your voyage every day.
    Thanks and safe travels,
    Jeff

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  2. It is always great to see the pictures. And the story of the 90+ lady! Stuart

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  3. Thanks for sharing the photos and stories.
    Humerbto and his mother are amazing.
    Love the 'dozer shot-Hahaha!
    Wow; some plant with the inflated pods. I couldn’t even guess the family! I cheated and did an internet search. The plant is now Gomphocarpus physocarpus, renamed from Asclepias physocarpa when it was moved from the milkweed family to Apocynaceae, the same family as plumeria. https://toptropicals.com/catalog/uid/Asclepias_physocarpa.htm

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